Le Cercle des Nageurs: France’s Most Mysterious Swimming Club

A place I had never even heard of before – but ever since I’ve been living in the South, it keeps coming up. Surrounded by myths and whispers. A club, a swimming pool, a secret society? For the longest time I never really understood what it was all about. Until recently, when I finally went there myself. In Marseille. Right by the sea, not far from the old port, in the cove of the Catalans. A friend of mine who happens to be a member invited me along. Because that’s the only way in: either as a member or as someone’s guest. And now I can finally tell you what this mysterious Cercle really is.

At its core, it’s a swimming club, with a complex built straight into the rocks at the water’s edge. There are three pools: one Olympic-sized, one filled with seawater, and a 25-meter pool indoors. On top of that, there’s private access to the sea, plus plenty of terraces and sun decks. There’s also a restaurant – though calling it that might be a bit of a stretch. It’s more like a canteen, where you grab a tray and line up self-service style. As for the food, let’s just say it doesn’t even come close to the canteen at my school, where I work as a teacher.

Overall, the whole place feels a bit like a school anyway. That afternoon, most of the people around were teenagers taking their swimming lessons. I later found out that many of them were students from Provence School – one of the most elite schools in Marseille, where wealthy families send their kids. But the atmosphere was nothing like the chic, exclusive vibe I had imagined when people told me this was a prestigious club.

The architecture, too, has aged. Founded in 1921, the club originally consisted of just some simple wooden cabins. It was transformed in the 1960s into the form we know today: minimalist, modern, and functional – all oriented towards the sea, and built into the rock. Later, a few adjustments were made, but the overall style remains original and now feels a bit worn. I love it.

When I asked my friend what really makes this club special, he pointed straight to its sporting achievements. And it’s true: the CNM is one of the most successful swimming and water polo clubs in Europe. Countless international medal winners have trained here, including Olympic champions like Florent Manaudou and Frédérick Bousquet. The water polo team, in fact, holds the record for the most national titles in France.

But let’s be honest: it’s not just the sport that makes this place so legendary. A big part of it is its aura as a private club. Becoming a member is tough – it takes connections, money, and plenty of patience on a waiting list. Those who make it automatically belong to an “inner circle” in Marseille. It’s said to be a meeting place for big names in sport, politics, culture, and business. I personally didn’t feel much of that on my visit. What struck me most was the place itself: unusual, a little out of time – and I’m glad I finally got to see it, at least once.