L’Estaque: A Lot of Chichi?

The harbor of L'Estaque

Do you know L’Estaque? No? Not really? Well, I’m not surprised. It’s not exactly what you’d call a tourist hotspot. Even though it’s located on the Mediterranean, it doesn’t have the glamour or elegance of other picturesque villages and small towns along the southern French coast. Instead, it feels more like a working-class neighborhood. But L’Estaque is still worth a visit – and I’ll tell you why.

L’Estaque, once a fishing village, is now a district on the outskirts of Marseille. In the 19th century, many artists and writers came here, drawn by the magical light and landscape. One of the most famous visitors was Marcel Pagnol, who loved this area and often featured it in his stories. His films and books, such as Marius or La Femme du Boulanger, perfectly capture the local vibe: relaxed, authentic, and a bit nostalgic.

Painters like Cézanne also worked here. He was completely fascinated by the landscape and the light. Many of his famous studies on color and perspective were created in L’Estaque. Over time, the area has naturally evolved, and the urban influence of Marseille is noticeable. But despite this, L’Estaque has managed to retain its village character.

A Chichi

While it might not attract hordes of tourists, it’s a favorite spot for locals in the Marseille region – not because of its history, but because of one special treat: chichis. And these are the reason you absolutely must make a detour to L’Estaque if you’re visiting Marseille.

The history of chichis in L’Estaque dates back to the 1930s when they became popular among factory workers who enjoyed them during their breaks. Although they look similar to Spanish churros, chichis are different. They’re thicker, about 20 cm long, with a light, airy texture. They’re made from a mix of wheat and chickpea flour, flavored with orange blossom water, and fried in hot oil.

There’s nothing better than grabbing a bag of chichis from one of the small stands along the promenade on a sunny day and sitting by the water or the harbor to enjoy them. If you’re in the mood for something savory, you can also try panisses – another local specialty made from chickpea flour.

L’Estaque is perfect for those who want to experience authentic southern France while indulging in a tasty treat. You won’t find crowded tourist streets here, just genuine life and down-to-earth charm. And the chichis alone make it worth the visit – they’re absolutely delicious!